Wise Observer

Studies conducted over the past two decades demonstrate that the exposure of the passengers inside a car to the dangerous air pollutants including respiratory irritants, neurological agents, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), carbon monoxide and carcinogens is significantly higher than that of bicyclists, pedestrians and public transfer riders.

Increased exposure to these pollutants can produce serious health problems. Benzene is a known carcinogen and VOCs are also likely cancer agents. Almost all the pollutants can irritate the eyes, nose, and respiratory systems of people exposed to them.

They also may hinder the development of fetuses and infants. Studies indicate that the elevated levels of auto exhausts can also suppress the immune system, making human beings more vulnerable to colds, influenza, and other respiratory conditions like asthma. Car air filters purify the air inside a car, allowing the passengers to have healthy and clean air to breathe.

Car air filters come in two main types: the panel style, as used on most fuel-injected cars, and the radial style, which are usually used on carbureted vehicles. A car air filter is enclosed in a black plastic casing near the center-top of the engine.

The air filter traps dirt particles, which can cause damage to engine cylinders, walls, pistons and piston rings. Changing car’s filters on a regular basis can have a significant impact on engine life and performance. A good rule of thumb is to change filters once or twice a year, or roughly once every 15,000 miles. Replacing a clogged air filter has two-fold impact on the engine: a fuel economy benefit: up to 10%, which makes for equivalent gasoline savings up to 15 per gallon.
Dirty and dusty driving conditions will require more frequent filter replacements. It is important to avoid using the wrong size filter in a car.

Nowadays, car owners are using ‘Nanotechnology’ based filters to improve cabin air quality. Such filters contain charcoal layers, which remove odors. These filters allow ‘mechanical filtration’, in which the fiber material of the filter with pores of a specific size will trap particles larger than the size of the pores. Almost 80% of the cars sold in U.S. include a built-in nanotechnology-based filter.

Air Filters Info provides detailed information on home, car, electronic, and HEPA air filters, as well as air conditioner filters and air filter manufacturers. Air Filters Info is the sister site of Air Purifiers Web.

Hybrid cars cost about $5,000 more than
non-hybrids. In addition, hybrids involve two
systems - the extra electrical components (electric
motor, charging system, batteries, etc.) and most
all the components of a gasoline car. Such vehicles
increase the potential for repairs from the additional
system.

The Japanese and Europeans have micro cars that
are fuel efficient. At this time, however, they are not
offered to Americans.

Diesels are an alternative. BMW has a 320di with 160
horsepower. It gets about 50 mpg and goes 0-60 is
about 8.1 seconds. However, this car is not imported
into the United States.

Kia and Hyundai are rising in quality, but their prices
are coming up just under pricey Toyota and Honda cars.

The cost of transportation can be expensive, and higher
fuel prices do not help matters. The following used
vehicles have good ratings, are reasonably priced,
and they will help lower fuel usage and thus costs.

1. The Toyota Corolla has been around for
over 30 years. During the last few years,
the Corolla has become a bit larger. Expect
to achieve about 30 miles per gallon (mpg)
in the city and about 40 mpg on the highway
with this vehicle.

2. The Honda Civic has been a stiff rival to
the Corolla. The Civic has also recently
grown a bit in size. The Civic is right there
with the Corolla at about 30 mpg in the city
and about 40 mpg on the highway.

3. The Geo Prizm will cost about $1,000-
$1,500 less than a comparable year
Corolla or Civic. The Prizm will achieve
about 29 mpg city and about 38 mpg on
the highway.

SUVs can really eat the fuel, however, they
are convenient for hauling cargo, and some
definitely have a real advantage in bad weather
and off-road conditions.

4. The Suzuki Esteem wagon provides some
cargo-carrying ability and reasonable fuel
economy. Expect to achieve about 28 mpg
in the city and about 37 mpg on the highway
with this vehicle.

5. The Subaru Legacy wagon/Outback wagon
and Forester can all carry cargo plus they
have all-wheel drive. These vehicles generally
have the most powerful engines out of those
mentioned above. Expect to achieve about
22 mpg in the city and about 27 mpg on the
highway.

If you are in the market for a vehicle, be certain
to do your homework. Consult the April (automotive
issue) of “Consumer Reports.” This resource
is available at most public libraries.

If you plan on buying a used vehicle, also be
sure to read a couple of archived new vehicle
road tests (review road tests that were conducted
at the time the vehicle was new) on the used vehicle
of interest in auto magazines (many are archived
at your local library) or Internet sources such as
“Car and Driver,” “Motor Trend,” “Road & Track,”
or “MotorWeek.” Information from the road tests
will allow you to zero in on which of the vehicles
discussed above will be the best for you.

Last, but not least, be certain that you do not
overpay to drive a fuel-efficient vehicle. For
example, if you pay say $1,500 more for a vehicle
that achieves five mpg more than your current
vehicle, you would need to drive it about three years
to get $1,500 in fuel savings. However, say
you pay an extra $500 for a vehicle that achieves
10 mpg more than your current vehicle. In a little
over six months, you would recoup your $500.

Kyle Busch is the author of “Drive the Best for the
Price: How to Buy a Used Automobile, Sport-Utility
Vehicle, or Minivan and Save Money.” His web site:
www.drivethebestbook.com accepts all transportation
questions.

© 2005 Kyle Busch

Kyle Busch is the author of “Drive the Best for the
price …” His web site http://www.drivethebestbook.com
accepts all transportation questions.

Tire pressure and condition is one of the most overlooked safety aspects on our cars. Most people just assume their tires are fine and that they will be safe because they look okay - the tires are not flat. Rarely do we ever see someone get out a tire pressure gauge and check their tire pressure or place their hands on the tire and feel for roundness and irregularities. What most people don’t know is that proper tire pressure will improve your gas mileage, make your brakes and suspension system last longer, and it will improve your gas mileage. According to AAA, it is ideal to have your tires pressure and condition checked for safety every time you fill up your gas tank and prior to any long drives or vacations.

Before checking your tire pressure you should check your tires condition. Your tires are what holds you to the road and if there are any irregular wear patterns, bubbles and cracks, etc your safety can be greatly compromised. Look over all your tires. Place the palm of your hand on the tire and feel it is it round? This may sound obvious, but you can quickly find early signs of cupping (which can indicate bad struts), irregular wear (could be improperly balanced wheels), cracks, and deep wear that would make your tires unsafe.

Take out a penny and make sure Lincolns head is buried in the tread. If it isn’t that means you need to replace your tires. Every time I go to the local grocery store half of the cars I see have bald or nearly bald tires and tires in bad condition. This can cause hydroplaning and very unsafe conditions if the roads were wet from a recent rain. If you notice anything irregular take your car to a service station. Have your tire condition checked and have your tires replaced as necessary as your safety may be compromised by worn tires or another tire condition (Walmart’s service stations will check your tires for free).

To properly check your tires pressure you must use a tire pressure gauge. Going by look or feel isn’t good enough. Just because the tire doesn’t look flat doesn’t mean you didn’t over or under inflate it. Your car or trucks owners manual will tell you the recommended tire pressure for your tires. Check all four tires and your spare. You wouldn’t believe the number of people that assume their spare is fine and haven’t checked it in 3 or more years. Some don’t even know if they have a spare or tire changing tools. Some people don’t even know where to look for their spare tire or how to change a tire.

Most tire pressure gauges have an indicator that will be pushed out by the amount of pressure in your tire. More expensive ones are digital. Both are rudimentary and easy to use. If you find you are under inflated most gas stations have an air pump. Fill and check again to ensure proper pressure. Always replace the caps when you are done. This keeps the elements out and corrosion can and does cause leaks. If you have too much pressure then let some out by pressing a key or screwdriver into the release valve and then check it again. If your tires have too much pressure it can cause them to prematurely wear in the middle and reduce the actual area of the tire that meets the road and can reduce your safety.

There you have it, how to properly check your tires condition and pressure for safety. By having safe tires you are increasing both your safety and the safety of those around you.

Aligning the wheels is universally regarded as a sound bike
practice. It is a good thing to have both ends of the
motorcycles aligned so as to make cornering smooth and
predictable. In addition, alignment makes less wear and tear for
the wheels.

It is rare for riders to do alignment on new bikes. This is
because innovations greatly improve production tolerances over
time. Thus, most bikes now are pretty straight.

However, we have to do the aligning to most of the models we
have these days. Before you proceed to the aligning, be sure
that the motorcycle parts are free from flaws and the basics are
fine.

Traveling in a straight line will definitely bring you to your
desired destination with lesser effort and calculation. If the
wheels are not aligned, the bike may have the tendency to pull
on one side or steer in one direction easier. These
circumstances can lessen the bike’s tyre span.

If you are using the squiz at your conventional chain-drive
bike, you can change the back wheel’s position through the
adjusters. When you move the wheel or tension the chain, you
line it up against the alignment marks on the swingarm. If the
axle is back on one side at about three and a half notches, be
certain to bring it back to the same extent to the other side.
Always double check.

To test the alignment of your bike, you can use the string
lining technique. All you have to do is to use two straight
edges or strings that are longer than your bike. Let your bike
stand still on the sidestand and closely prop up to vertical. A
race stand is also a good alternative. The next thing to do is
to wrap the string around the front wheel and connect it
under-bike hardware under the machine. To achieve best results,
you must have a bike buddy to assist you. Another, you can also
use oil cans and jackstands to hold the loose ends of the string
while you are fiddling. To make it all lined is quite a hard
thing to do but to make it easy, stop when the bike is already
assumed straight.

Accurateness is not that critical. If ever, you find it really
difficult to align, check on the frame or perhaps the bike might
have been designed with the rear wheel offset from the front.